The Long Way Home


The Road to Carol Dunlop

Jeff and  I will be driving soon to Florida to visit family for the holiday break, which will have its moments of fun, amazement, frustration and daily life. Our car will be our house on wheels (which I’ve always wanted), complete with Christmas tree on the dashboard.

In the 1982 travel book Autonauts of the Cosmoroute, writer Julio Cortazar and his wife, photographer Carol Dunlop, vowed to make stops at each of the 70 rest areas along the French autoroute from Paris to Marseilles. It’s the ultimate adventure in experimental travel – how can a traveling couple make this ordinary, busy highway road a lot more like the roads less traveled?

The book is peppered with logs of camping provisions and daily menus, as well as Dunlop’s snapshot-like photography. I had never heard of her work until I found Autonauts in the Archipelago Books catalog.  And while most of the book is light-hearted and whimsical, the ending is almost too sad to bear when you know that Cortazar had to finish the book alone because Carol died before she saw it to completion at the age of 36.

Her life and death are a mystery to me, as well as her work. She was born in Boston, but became a Canadian citizen during the Vietnam war. She met Cortazar in 1977, then moved with him to France. I  found a blog about her written a few years ago, but it’s in Spanish, which I don’t speak. I can only read her life through these few photographs of the last journey of her life.



Happy (Halloween) Anniversary
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photo by Lorraine Plaikner

Not only is Halloween our favorite holiday, it also happens to be the day that Jeff and I decided to get hitched in 2008. I’ve never been the girl to have bride-fantasies — hell, I never even thought I’d get married — so the idea of planning a wedding was a nightmare for me. We thought it would be more fun if we treated the affair like a giant Halloween party.

We kept it simple: 105 guests, no bridal party and asked our friends and family to arrive in costume. Throughout the entire planning, we promised to keep true to ourselves by doing it our way, no interference from others (and anyone who has planned a wedding will tell you how people will put their two-sense in. Brides, stay strong!). 

Halloween wedding

r: photo by Lorraine Plaikner. l: our cake topper

We don’t belong to a church, and didn’t want to rush around trying to join one just for the sake of a wedding, so to ‘keep it legal’ we were married at the justice of the peace in Bloomfield on October 30.On October 31, our vows were written and delivered by a scarecrow, aka, my friend Mike Bunn. After 9 months of planning and knowing every detail of the event, he offered to do this for us so that we could be surprised. His words — our promise to each other — moved most everyone there to tears and laughter:

 

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photo by Lorraine Plaikner

I love you.

You are my best friend.

You are my Monster.
Today, I pledge myself to you in marriage.
I promise to encourage you and inspire you,

to laugh with you

and sometimes laugh at you,

I promise to love you when our relationship is simple,

and to continue loving you when it takes effort. 

I know we both will change,

individually and together,

but I’ll always accept you for exactly who you are, the only person I want to spend my life with.

When I need to remind myself why I made this promise to Jeff, I re-read our vows and know how lucky we are to have found one another. Who else will put up with my compulsive list-making, singing in the shower, and fear of highways? He’s the man who encouraged me to keep taking photos and who loves to cook me dinner and make beautiful, surreal paintings.

monsterpainting

"for better or for worse" by Jeff Schreckengost

Marriage is a journey that I never thought would be so challenging and so amazing. If I could call anything close to home, it’s being with Monster. 

portrait of Jeff as Krampus (or Satan, or whatever)

portrait of Jeff as Krampus (or Satan, or whatever)

Halloween annivesary

paper is the first anniversary traditional gift.

lisawitch1



Closet Photography: Leaving writing in the dark

I’m drawn to writers who turned to photography or photographers turned writers or artists who choose to do both because this is me. I’m always looking for answers as to how the two arts coexist in a creative mind. Sometimes it’s difficult for me to accept that both exist inside of me. I came to photography more recently, and I’ve always identified as a writer.

I’ve been a closet photographer for years, living in denial every time I’d go for my camera instead of sitting in front of the computer to write stories. In grad school, my friend Dan and I would spend afternoons going for drives, looking for places to take pictures when we both should have been writing (he’s a writer too, although he is a talented photographer as well), but instead we told stories through the lens. 

Julia Margaret Cameron was a late-Victorian photographer who explored literature and mythology through portraiture. Prior to her turning to photography at the age of 48, she was an aspiring writer who was friends with the likes of Alfred Tennyson and Henry Taylor. Learning this bit of information, I now study her photographs in a completely different way. Why did she abandon writing? What made her embrace photography with such enthusiastic fearlessness?  She would still make a print from a cracked glass negative just to preserve the image.

 

Sappho c. 1866

Sappho c. 1866

 

Lewis Carroll’s photography was considered merely a hobby, but has now gained respect in the art world, as well as generated controversy with his photos of naked children. With his mathematician’s attention to detail, he viewed photography as more of a science to be explored rather than an art.

After reading one of my favorite creepy novels of all time, Therese Raquin, I was curious to discover that Emile Zola was also a closet photographer. I have been trying to find examples of his work online, but I only came across this self-portrait from someone’s Flickr page.

While browsing at Barnes & Noble one afternoon this past spring, I bought The Well and the Mine simply because of the photograph of a barefoot young girl sitting on a porch railing. Eudora Welty had taken the photograph when she worked for the WPA during the Great Depression. In a New York Times 1989 interview, Welty is modest about her photographs, calling them ’snapshots.’ I was hoping, as the interviewer seemed to hope, that Welty would make connections with photography and writing, let us in on the big secret – did one art fuel the other? 

Welty compared her photographic ’snapshots’  to short stories in that each, if done well, captures a moment that could have been lost. She had proposed a book of short stories accompanied by her photographs to her publisher in the 1950s, but there wasn’t a market for this sort of project. Knowing that she was also a photographer allows me to read her fiction through the eye of her lens. 



Experimental Travel, or what to do when you can’t go anywhere
May 27, 2009, 8:53 pm
Filed under: Armchair Travel, Library Shelf | Tags:

I found the Lonely Planet book, Experimental Travel, in Ollie’s Bargain Outlet in Greensburg (if you haven’t been to an Ollie’s, and you are driving through small town USA, you really need to pull over and check out one, especially if you are into drugstore overstock and bargain book tables). It’s a ‘how to’ book of off-beat exploration experiments to try when you are broke, afraid, have tried everything crazy there is to do when you travel or if you are just a boring person who has to be told how to think creatively.

But what I love most about this book is that it affirms my views on travel as being not just about physically going to a place, but about stepping outside of your everyday world and into another world. In the chapter “Domestic Travel,” the author asks readers to do just that: Trade places with a family member or friend and live their life for one day, or even a week. “Literary Journey” asks us to walk over to our bookshelves or local libraries and simply read. I spent most of my childhood (and adulthood) buried in books – I love their smell, the cover art, an irregular book size, their tight, clean pages crinkling as I turn them to find out what happens next. They are portable worlds. When I can’t go anywhere, books or exploring my neighborhood as a tourist are all I have to escape ordinary life on days when I really need it.

These suggestions seem really obvious, but it’s hard to put into words sometimes why travel is so much a part of me. I am always dreaming about the next adventure. I remind myself that travel is not about the place, but the people who make up that place. Sometimes I can remember in faded terms the names of monuments or city streets, but I can remember very strongly the people who have affected me.

I miss Tamara in Nova Gorica and Andrija in Osijek and in my mind’s eye I am walking along the train tracks in Nova Gorica. It is March, very windy, my hands in my red coat pockets.  There are palm trees planted in somebody’s back yard on the Italian side of the border, in contrast to the Julian Alps view on the Slovene side. I have a few weeks till I am home again in the States, but I don’t yet know this. It is just enough to be here with no plan, even though it is frightening. It is where I am meant to be at that moment.



Government cheese and other foods from my childhood
I love to read about food. I read cookbooks, food history books. I pour over recipes, repeating words like ‘asparagus’ and ‘orzo’ because they are beautiful to my ears. I love to eat bowls of buttered egg noodles with pepper while I read articles in Gourmet and Saveur. It gives me comfort to be eating one of my staples from childhood while reading about grilled mahi mahi with capers in lemon dill sauce.
But I’ve wondered why I don’t see articles about the foods that nobody wants to talk about. I  grew up eating dishes such as city chicken, that tasty concoction of veal and chicken, lightly battered and panfried. I loved sloppy joes made in a creamy sauce of mushroom soup instead of tomato sauce. It was muddy-looking, like something stuck to the bottom of your shoes. But smothered over yellow potato bread offset the uglines of it so you could enjoy your after-school feast. The beginning of the month marked food stamp time, so we could get good lunch meat, like cappicola, fresh mozzrella cheese, or bratwurst for saurkraut. As the month went on, we were left with Kraft slices and pickles between regular white bread. Nobody wanted to swap lunches with my sister and me then. Government cheese made the best grilled cheese sandwiches because it melted so quickly, like Velveeta, but not as orange and not as waxy.
I don’t remember going to the welfare office for the block of cheese, or if it came in the mail. It just seemed to appear in our fridge, half of it left over until we’d get another block the next month. What did President Reagan expect us to do with all that cheese? A 3-woman household surviving on buttered noodles and pepper that lasted week till the first of the month. Reading about rack of lamb, or coq au vin helped to make the butter in the noodles taste richer, the pepper spiking my tongue with flavor. It was my first experiences with denial, or what I like to think of as imagination – that some foods we are taught aren’t so sophiscated can be really, really good.


Hurka and other food discoveries

I read fancy cookbooks with complicated recipes while I eat simple foods such as ramen noodles (doused in Sriracha sauce), or buttered egg noodles with pepper. My friend Roya calls it ‘food pornography’ because it is fantasizing  about and longing for the dish on the page while eating something comforting and familiar. It is the best of both worlds. And when I can’t have either, I think about the foods that have shaped my eclectic palate.

1. hurka (pronounced ‘who’r-kuh’)

This is a Hungarian water-cooked sausage filled with various pork offal, rice, and onions. It was a staple in my grandmother’s kitchen, although I don’t remember the taste of it or even what it looks like too much. My mother said I loved it though, and would split open the casing and dig out all the rice and piggy products, drowning them in ketchup. Years later in my 20s, I met another Lisa of Hungarian descent who not only remembered eating hurka, but also dowsing it with ketchup. Ketchup may be the only way to make hurka palatable to a kid.

2. pickles and cheese sandwiches (worst sandwich)

When the food cupboard was bare, my mother would whip up this little number for a lunchbox treat: sliced dill pickles, Kraft American cheese slices, and white bread. I tried trading these with other kids in the lunchroom, but nobody wanted to eat them.

3. Prekmurje ham sandwich (best sandwich)

In 2003, Bill Fulmer and I did a cross-country trip to the Prekmurje region of Slovenia with our friend Tamara. We stayed at the Flisar family farm. Our rooms overlooked vineyards dotted with thatch-roofed sheds. The mailman only stopped once a week on his bicycle to pick up mail. We didn’t have time to eat breakfast the next morning because we were headed to Lake Balaton in Hungary, so the owner packed us a lunch: fresh baked bread, ham made straight from the pigs on her own farm, and a poppyseed gibanica, a seven-layer strudel popular in that region. We didn’t find all these goodies until later, when the three of us sat by the shallow water of Lake Balaton eating what she had given us: bread, ham, butter, and tomato. A really simple meal that I still crave.

4. lima beans and milk

Not necessarily together (although that would be my nightmare). I don’t like lima beans because of their texture – squooshy, like I imagine beetles would be if they were crushed between my teeth. I will pick them out of my meal if I spot them in there, which I know is childish, but they really gross me out. I will cook with milk, and drink chocolate milk, but regular white milk is disgusting. I declared my war on this foul juice when I was five years old, and it continues to this day.

5. egg noodles with butter and black pepper

Simply the best comfort food ever. My mother would make this often when were kids, when she was too tired to cook after working all day. It also tastes good sprinkled with poppy seeds, making it Hungarian comfort food.

6. McCountries and mini hamburgers

I know McDonalds is widely disputed and considered evil, but I really grew fond of this Eastern European pork patty version of the Quarter Pounder. When I desperately needed something “American,” I’d get this “Menu’ item (Croatia’s equivalent to “Value”). Pecs, Hungary has a bakery near the old pharmacy that sells mini-hamburgers, which are tiny versions of the McCountry: pork patty, lettuce and mustard on a freshly baked lilliputian bun, 2 for $1 USD. Perfect for wrapping in a napkin and eating on the go.

7. my sister’s chocolate chip cookies

She could win a bake-off with these babies. She has been baking them since she was 10 years old, so she has a lot of practice. The secret to her cookie is just the right balance of salt and sweet, crispy on the outside and soft on the inside. The perfect cookie.

8. muttar paneer

My favorite North Indian meal of  peas and cubes of tofu-like cheese. I used to eat this dish for many a dinner when I was a sophomore in college (sometimes 3 or 4 days in a row) since I worked at Delhi Grill. I love the sweetness and slight bite to the peas with the chewy paneer following right after. I could eat a whole shit-load of this stuff right now.

9. mussels

These made me a more adventurous eater. When I was first introduced to them, I swallowed them whole because I was afraid to bite into the little suckers. But now I can’t imagine them without plain garlic butter on a warm summer night (sorry, Jeff, I know this is killing you to read this part, ever since you ate a bad one and spent the one night wondering whether you should puke or sit on the pot all night. One bad mussel is dangerous indeed).

10. Jeff’s fried chicken

He has made the recipe his own: something with panko crumbs, cornmeal, buttermilk and fried in canola oil. I don’t know the exact recipe and if I did I wouldn’t tell anyone, but then he puts a few shakes of buffalo sauce on top and it’s amazing. It reminds me of why I married him in the first place.



Travel books that aren’t necessarily about travel

Some books to read when you can’t go anywhere

The Moon by Night by Madeline L’Engle

Madeline L’Engle is better known for her science fiction rather than her spiritual writings in the Episcopal church, but it’s her non science fiction chronicles that make me love her writing so much. The church I attended as a kid was chockfull of her young adult books,  and The Moon by Night was one of my favorites. In the second book of  the Austin family series, Vicky Austin confronts growing pains and first love while traveling cross-country with her family in a ramshackle camper. While the thoughts of traveling with my own family would have me running for the hills, I always thought it would be so cool to live in a house on wheels, and I loved the groovy 1970s bookcover, and the interconnected world of L’Engle characters.

Nancy Drew Mystery Series

Who the hell knows which state River Heights actually exists, but it’s in close proximity to New York City and Chicago, as well as Shadow Ranch, Moonstone Castle and the ghostly Blackwood Hall. I was always envious that Nancy and her chums were lucky enough to encounter mysterious mannequins in Turkey, or solve crimes in such exotic locales as Japan and Scotland. They had all the time and money in the world. It wasn’t until I was an adult who could afford her own travels that I asked, how did Nancy do it? When I want to escape to the Forgotten City, I think of eating tea sandwiches at roadside inns, lunch always interrupted by the next adventure.

Culinaria Hungary

This beautiful cookbook is more travelogue than recipe collection. With its stunning photography and detailed historical research, each region of Hungary comes to life through the pages. It makes me want to climb into the book and emerge from Budapest on the other side.

The Oblivion Seekers by Isabelle Eberhardt

Isabelle Eberhardt was a late-Victorian female traveler who spent much of her time primarily in Algeria. She dressed in men’s clothes, converted to Islam and traveled through the North African deserts alone. Unlike Isabella Bird or Gertrude Bell, women travelers who made a living through their travel writings, Isabelle was addicted to morphine which often clouded her judgment as well as hampered her writing ability. The Oblivion Seekers, translated by Paul Bowles, is more a collection of diary-like pieces rather than short stories. Most of her journals were washed away in a flash flood, which killed her at the age of 27.



Sunday Mornings with Howard
March 8, 2009, 10:21 am
Filed under: Armchair Travel, Pennsylvania, United States | Tags: , , , , ,

 

my first apartment (green house on left), 1974

my first apartment (green house on left), 1974

I’m listening to the Howard Hanna Realty show, as I usually do on Sunday mornings. I’ve liked to do this since I was a kid living in a string of apartments;  the idea of living in a house is alien to me, much like living in a foreign country. There is something voyeuristic about catching a glimpse of the home owners’ lives on TV, like unraveling a mystery through their whirlpool-style tubs, their kitchen islands and hardwood floors. A lot of the homes haven’t been updated since the early 90s, leftover shades of pastels carrying over from the 80s, reminding me that if it were mine, I’d have a lot of work to do.

The houses are way beyond what Jeff and I could afford, even in this economy, and now that we’re married, everyone asks us when we are going to get  a house, as if marriage isn’t enough of a giant life-changing event. We’re still recovering from all the financial and emotional stresses of the wedding.

Jeff really wants a place to call our own, but I’m hesitant. The idea of owning a house is so overwhelming to me because of all the responsibility that goes with it. I’d rather travel and have a home base, albeit a rented temporary space. It is the contradiction that is Lisa: I want to carry my home with me on the road.

behind our apartment which was once a shoe store

behind our apartment which was once a shoe store

our backyard

our backyard